Success story — the trade secrets of corrective foundation

How does the composition of traditional foundation differ from a more concealing corrective foundation? Micheline El Achkar reveals the hidden face of Dermablend foundation, a real expert in flawless complexion.
Success story — the trade secrets of corrective foundation

Pigment level is much higher in a corrective foundation, compared with traditional foundation, to perfectly conceal skin flaws like colour and texture.

Finding a foundation that "conceals just enough without appearing over the top" for a flawless finish is a bit like meeting your soul mate — when you find it, you want to know everything about it! 

Micheline El Achkar, Product Development Engineer, tells us the story of a surefire product in the make-up world — the Dermablend 16-hour Fluid Corrective Foundation. From design to application and not forgetting production and testing, the Dermablend range reveals the secrets of its success and its popularity among professional make-up artists, dermatologists.

Who is corrective foundation designed for?

Today, the highly-developed formula of this category of foundation suits all skin types, except perhaps extremely dry ones. Women who prefer glamorous make-up and a perfect complexion will enjoy the coverage and lightness of the fluid as much as those who want to conceal light to severe imperfections, marks or scars. The latest generation of corrective foundation works miracles and combines very high coverage with an incredibly light texture.

What is the difference between a traditional foundation and a corrective foundation?

The difference is linked to the level of foundation coverage, which is obtained according to three inseparable factors:

  • Pigment level is the most obvious. It is much higher in a corrective foundation to perfectly conceal skin flaws like colour and texture.
  • The second factor is the speed of application. The longer the application time, the lighter the coverage as the product has been spread too thinly. But the application time should not be too short either as the film will not have time to settle properly. Our laboratories work hard on this aspect. They mix oils with different volatility levels and test various concentrations until they obtain an easy-to-apply, fresh formula with a perfectly even result.
  • The last factor concerns the raw materials added to the emulsion (water and oils). We scientists call them "substances". Depending on their transparency, they bring varying degrees of opacity.

How do you decide on the shades in the range?

To create a beige shade, four different colours are needed — white, red, yellow and black. It is the colourists who blend these pigments through careful and painstaking ratio testing. However, the pigment level always stays the same, i.e. higher than in traditional foundation for perfect coverage. It is the proportions between these four basic colours that vary.

Do you work with dermatologists, make-up artists or consumers upstream?

Between the start of the project with its detailed specifications and the arrival of the foundation on the market, there are 12 to 18 months of hard work. From laboratory proposals to large-scale production, each new formula must undergo a series of tests to check whether it can be reapplied several times a day or whether it is compatible with dermatological treatments.

Comments and recommendations from dermatologists, professional make-up artists, bloggers and, of course, consumers are always invaluable and enable us to develop an extremely effective corrective foundation that meets everyone's needs.

As a woman and scientist, do you have any tips to share regarding corrective foundation?

To help you choose the right foundation shade, use the testers available in pharmacies and apply the product directly to your face (jaw line) to check that it matches your skin tone perfectly. It is best to wait two or three minutes for the shade to settle on your skin before deciding.Remember to change shades during the year as well. In general, your skin tone is lighter in winter and more tanned in summer due to the sun, although corrective foundations have the added advantage of protecting your skin from the sun's rays.