OILY SKIN: CHARACTERISTICS & NEEDS

Shiny skin, enlarged pores, irregular texture and in more serious cases blackheads and imperfections. These can be the main indicators of oily skin.

It can all start with sebaceous glands, which are responsible for producing sebum. Any disruption to the sebaceous glands can trigger oily skin. Below, are explanations and practical advice for alleviating oily skin.

• 01. Three signs of oily skin
• 02. Understanding oily skin
• 03. Needs of shine-prone skin
• 04. Oily skin - generally accepted ideas

01. The three signs of oily skin

Studies show that imperfections can be. We also know that European women are less affected (2 in 5 women) than Asian and Hispanic women (around 1 in 2 women).

Pollution plays a significant role in seborrhoea which increase greatly in a polluted environment. Heat combined with humidity also fluidifies the sebum which can then “runs” on the skin’s surface, increasing the risk of shiny skin. Equally, ultraviolet rays aggravate imperfections by thickening the stratum corneum. Finally, extreme nervousness and stress can also boost the production of sebum.

More than any other skin type, oily and imperfection prone skin types require impeccable hygiene routines to avoid aggregation of the skin. Care should be taken not to touch your face with unwashed hands or with hair that has been exposed to dust and pollution.

02. Understanding oily skin

When all is well, sebum rises through the pilosebaceous duct along the hair and surfaces through the pore onto the epidermis where it contributes to the formation of the hydrolipidic film, whose main function is to help protect the skin against dehydration and external damage (such as the sun and the environment). At puberty, and for some people at different times during their lives, this process is can become permanently disrupted.

Any hormonal upheaval can cause the hypersecretion of sebum: a derivative of testosterone produced by the testicles and ovaries. It settles on the sebaceous gland where it increases the production of sebum to a greater or lesser extent. Hormonal upheavals can also trigger an intensified cell renewal. Thus, the first signs of oily skin appear.

Shiny skin surface, enlarged pores and irregular skin texture are the most common signs of oily skin. Adopting a good daily skincare routine is generally sufficient to enable the skin to recover its former appearance.

The sharp increase in cell renewal can lead to pores becoming blocked. As a result, excess cells deviate from their course and clog the pore. Sebum, which inevitably becomes blocked inside the pilosebaceous duct, forms a small white hard plug inside the skin: a microcyst. It shows in a grainy appearance on the skin’s surface. It may spontaneously disappear or develop into an inflammatory lesion. A sebum "plug" may also form when pores are dilated: once it comes into contact with the open air, it forms a blackhead.

This is often the logical follow-on from retentional imperfections. Indeed, the pilosebaceous follicle hosts a grease-loving bacterium which is particularly virulent between the ages of 15 and 25. It proliferates with the hypersecretion of sebum and infects blackheads. These in turn become inflamed and form large red imperfections which can develop into a white pustule. This when a dermatologist or GP should be consulted.

Shiny skin is characterised by excess sebum secretion, predominantly around the facial median zone (forehead, temples, nose and chin) where the sebaceous glands are greater in size and number.

Shine is the main constituent feature of oily skin. It affects all women, not just adolescents, regardless of their age and is not necessarily linked to the presence of other imperfections.

Consequently, shiny skin is not solely a result of internal factors such as hormones or stress, but is also influenced by external factors.

A recent study demonstrated the link between shine and UV’s. The skin reacts to UV damage, even on a daily basis, by producing excess sebum by as much as at least 26%. Present all year, UV’s are therefore responsible for shine.

As a consequence, skin needs to be protected all day long throughout the year with the appropriate care regime.

This is often the logical follow-on from retentional imperfections. Indeed, the pilosebaceous follicle hosts a grease-loving bacterium which is particularly virulent between the ages of 15 and 25. It proliferates with the hypersecretion of sebum and infects blackheads. These in turn become inflamed and form large red imperfections which can develop into a white pustule. This when a dermatologist or GP should be consulted.

This is often the logical follow-on from retentional imperfections. Indeed, the pilosebaceous follicle hosts a grease-loving bacterium which is particularly virulent between the ages of 15 and 25. It proliferates with the hypersecretion of sebum and infects blackheads. These in turn become inflamed and form large red imperfections which can develop into a white pustule. This when a dermatologist or GP should be consulted.

This is often the logical follow-on from retentional imperfections. Indeed, the pilosebaceous follicle hosts a grease-loving bacterium which is particularly virulent between the ages of 15 and 25. It proliferates with the hypersecretion of sebum and infects blackheads. These in turn become inflamed and form large red imperfections which can develop into a white pustule. This when a dermatologist or GP should be consulted.

The objective is to help rid the skin of excess sebum by cleansing twice daily with a special cleansing gel designed for oily skin. The next stage is to regulate sebum secretion while protecting the skin from sebum-generating UVA & UVB rays using a mattifying moisturiser with SPF protection.

Finally, the effectiveness of active ingredients should be prolonged by using a special product at night when sebum is being formed deep down in the skin.

An oily skin is unstable and fragile and can fluctuate across extreme states due to lack of care and attention. It therefore has to be treated gently and its specific needs met with the right care.

What make-up should be used for oily skin?
Firstly, always use a matifying moisturiser as make-up foundation: contrary to popular belief, an oily skin must be hydrated daily because if it lacks hydration it will tend to produce more sebum to compensate.
Choose fluid, non-comedogenic and hypoallergenic formulas.
Carefully remove make-up at the end of every day to clear the skin of impurities and make-up residues.

Why does skin seem to shine less in summer?
In the summer sun, sebaceous secretion doesn’t reduce, but actually increases. Oily skin seems momentarily drier because solar radiation destroys micro-organisms and thickens the epidermis. After moving out of the sun, the epidermis becomes thinner and numerous spots and blackheads appear. This is why it is essential to continue your skincare routine even in the summer sun.

04. Oily skin - generally accepted ideas

Depending on the amount of sebum secreted, a skin is oily, combination or dry. The amount produced varies from person to person, and can be up to twice as much. Sebum, rich in vitamin E (a fantastic antioxidant) and a constituent of the hydrolipidic film, helps protect the skin. Oily skins are therefore better protected against damage, but excess sebum dilates the pores and their oxidation can result in blackheads and imperfections.

Generally speaking, combination skin has the same characteristics as oily skin on the forehead, nose and chin, known as the T and U-zones. Dry skin is more prone to wrinkles.

Did you know?
Vitamin E, which is found on the surface of the skin, reduces in a polluted environment.

If your skin is oily, you shouldn’t put anything on it at night so that it can breathe
At night, sebaceous glands receive a molecular message to trigger the production of sebum. When sebaceous glands are hyperactive, they overproduce and clog pores which then dilate and expand. Enlarged pores become increasingly visible.
In the morning, the skin’s texture is irregular and rough and the skin is dull.
So, night-time is an essential part of your daily routine and should not be overlooked. It is vital to use a specially adapted and non-clogging care product.

Is there a link between food and oily skin?
Studies have not shown a link between these two factors. However, poor cleansing and errors in identifying the wrong skin type can make it worse.

Is it necessary to exfoliate every day?
Exfoliation or over-abrasive cleansing can cause the production of excess reactive sebum and the skin just becomes oily again more quickly. Use soft, hypoallergenic products once or twice a week to help eliminate impurities without damaging your skin.